The Rustic: The Frozen Rustic Rita
The Fast and the Furious movie series. Jack and the Box 99 cent tacos. The Frozen Rustic Margarita. What are, ‘things that are better than they’ve got any right to be, Alex?’
The Rustic. Because the line at Ice House was too long. I jest—mostly. The Rustic opened in 2013 to great fanfare. It’s a partnership between, among others, the folks who brought you Bowl and Barrell, Mutts, and Pat Green. It’s a large, indoor/outdoor venue that’s aesthetically impressive. Much of the inside has a raw wood finish and frequently smells of mesquite--the wood not the town. Edison lights hang throughout from a high, blown-out ceiling. Numerous steer skulls hang above the partially-open kitchen, while the bar contains a giant red, white, and blue flag constructed entirely of beer cans. ‘Merica. The outdoor portion is spacious and well-kept; an easier task because The Rustic does not allow dogs.
The speakers are large and often on. Plan accordingly.
Live music is core to The Rustic experience. Concerts play most evenings and throughout the weekend. And the lineups aren’t simply local charity cases filling a time slot—although there is that. To be clear, this is not a ‘bar that happens to have music.’ The Rustic is a full-fledged concert venue that regularly features impressive acts, of national and regional prominence. It’s unique and remarkable that a venue like this can exist square in the heart of Uptown. However, those just looking to grab a bite and some drinks in relative peace on a random weekend afternoon may find their eardrums blown out. The sound system and acoustics are impressive—sometimes to a fault.
The crowd is shockingly diverse. Think Ice House on acid. You might assume cowboy/cowgirl-chic, but when the place is packed you’re just as likely to see a velvet Gucci Track Suit or groups of of women ostensibly auditioning for Fashion Week South. Whatever your taste, we can all agree that Mule shoes are horrendous and should be criminalized.
“The crowd is shockingly diverse. Think Ice House on acid.”
Passing the straw test
The service is consistently odd. The Rustic claims to operate on a ‘team’ system, whereby a group of waiters are charged with attending your table. Unsurprisingly, however, this diffusion of responsibility often results in no one coming by for extended periods of time. I’ve seen this group method implemented at various establishments, and never effectively. Too many times to count, I’ve been seated for upwards of 10 minutes without anyone coming by. Conversely, just as many times, different waiters will come by every other minute. The wait staff is pleasant and appear hardworking, but the system just doesn’t function well consistently. The hostesses often seem perplexed at the request for a booth; as if you've asked for assistance solving a math problem. It's all-too-frequently a strange experience.
By this point, you’re probably thinking, “Yes, Mule shoes are a war crime. But why are you reviewing a margarita served at a burger-and-beer music venue?” First, the Rustic is more than burgers and beer. The menu is southwest upscale. From spicy devilled eggs, pimento cheese queso, brisket quesadillas, Nashville hot chicken, and a weekend pre-fix brunch menu that is surprisingly upscale—the Rustic’s food is far better than you might expect. Such is the margarita.
“For a house margarita, these are solid ingredients.”
The Rustic ‘Rita. Lunazul Reposado Tequila, avage nectar, and fresh-squeezed lime juice. For a house margarita, these are solid ingredients. Reposado tequila is aged in wood barrels for at least two months, making it smoother than normal tequila, and often taking on a mix of flavors based on the various oak barrels used. When served, the margarita is frozen thick, frequently leaving a trace of frost around the glass and the straw base. It's a good texture. But let’s get to the lime juice. This margarita is tart. Think Britney Spears ‘Hit Me Baby One More Time’ music video tart. This is not the safe, mellow, sugary mix you’d quite-rightly expect at ‘non-margarita’ venue. This drink takes risks. Mouth-puckering, sucking a semi-frozen lime through a straw, risks. And they pay off.
A place like the Rustic doesn’t need a good margarita to thrive. But I’m glad it has one.
FINAL SCORE: 3.5 Limes
