Jose: The Squozen
Two things you need to know. First, Cinco De Mayo is not Mexican Independence Day. Second, a Dallas Mexican restaurant whose name doesn’t start with an “M” has the best frozen margarita in the city.
“The bar is both simple and bespoke.”
Jose opened a year ago this week to well-deserved fanfare. From the outset, the space is immediately different. It’s a bright, welcoming, and largely-open layout. The back walls are splashed in white tile which is covered by black ‘pencil sketch’ art. Upon closer inspection—as the proprietors will tell you—this wall is a hand-drawn rendition of various photographs of a Mexican vacation. To the immediate right of the entryway you’ll find shelves resembling a Mexican ‘souvenir’ shop—filled with woven-bead skulls, authentic cookbooks, blankets, and Dia De Los Muertos accoutrements. All for sale. Speaking of ceramic work, it’s everywhere. This is not by accident. The restaurant’s namesake, José Noé Suro, is a renown artist in this style—and has created numerous original works for the restaurant, down to the gorgeous and unique plates.
No clue what this non-margarita drink is. But when observed in the wild it is often surrounded by groups of attractive women.
The bar is both simple and bespoke. A straightforward and relatively-small ‘U’ shaped seating space surrounds a large, gorgeous porcelain vase adorned with…stimulating imagery. The backsplash of the bar contains a variety of tequilas—from the moderate to the upscale. One cupboard is devoted solely to the ‘tequila of the month’ which features in the ever-changing specialty cocktails offered by the bartenders.
Speaking of the bartenders, they are excellent. In both talent and personality. Regulars and strangers alike can expect fantastic and friendly service by gifted individuals. But this is more than a welcoming face pouring a basic margarita. If you want an outstanding old fashioned, a handcrafted bourbon cocktail smoked in mesquite chips, or an off-the-books creation with high-quality ingredients, you’ll find it here. My advice: become a regular. For the cocktails and conversation.
The patio is stunning. Bright, colorful, and wide open, this sizeable area has the feel of a Mexican beach-adjacent courtyard and stretches from the main dining room all the way down to Lover’s lane. In the middle of the upper section lies a fountain with a giant, gold water-spouting pina—the core of the agave plant.
The walls of my kitchen are covered in pencil-sketch renderings of my trips to the grocery store. Which is almost as interesting.
The people watching is excellent. Park Cities chic meets Highland Park Village. Expect to see a mix of totally-not-dying-it-that-color blondes, rompers, wedges and the occasional-but-always-regrettable oversized floppy hat from the ladies. Gentleman vary. Seersucker or pastel shorts and stylish blazers occasionally intermingle with DG hats, oversized Prada sunglasses, and other douche-ornaments. Procure reservations if you're arriving after 5. Procure transportation if you're leaving after drinks.
But we’re too close to Cinco de Mayo to spend another minute not talking about today’s margarita. The Squozen. The ‘house’ frozen margarita of Jose. I say ‘house’ with a wink, because—while it’s technically the only frozen margarita on the menu—this is an unquestionably high-quality drink. Casamigos tequila, O3 Orange Liqueur, fresh (fresh!) lime juice, and agave. Mixed perfectly, frozen, garnished to taste with a lime and salt. If you aren’t familiar with O3, it’s a slightly different take on Cointreau. Allegedly mimicking the taste of the Brazilian pera orange, this liqueur is derived from orange, lemon, and curacao fruit. Like the Cointreau it’s subbing for—O3 is 40% abv (i.e. 80 proof), so amateurs and drivers should restrain from over-consumption.
Unfettered viewing angles for close observation of the Dallas wildlife.
And oh what restraint you’ll need. This margarita is simply excellent. Bucking the trend of most other frozens on offer, the Squozen is not even close to being overly sweet. This isn’t a ‘skinny’ margarita, but the lack of a sugary, syrupy taste—even when consuming the final fourth of the drink—is remarkable. Those disaffected by the sugar crash of a frozen from Mi Cocina or Gloria’s will be more than pleasantly surprised at how well it sits; both on the tongue and after consuming. But don’t assume the Squozen’s lack of sugar-saturation means it’s tart. No. Like many feats of greatness, this is an outstanding balancing act. Not too sweet, not too sour; just right, Goldilocks. The drink's perfect disposition is due to the presence of high-quality ingredients and absence of such fillers as sweet-and-sour. And the bartenders’ expert portioning of these components—mixed daily and continuously tested throughout the day for quality—must not be forgotten.
This is the best frozen margarita currently on offer in Dallas. And it’s not close.
So put on your culturally-appropriative sombrero, strap on your “Let’s Taco ‘Bout It” t-shirt, and celebrate the true meaning of Dallas Cinco de Mayo by consuming one (or several) Squozens.
FINAL SCORE: Five Limes
